1/30/2024 0 Comments No neutral wire smart switchSo you either have to read the product description very carefully or get the full model number with the three digit variant in front of the main model number. It’s especially frustrating because the Z wave switch, which does work with SmartThings, is now considered a “variant” of the Wi-Fi switch which does not. The DH15S Decora Smart Switch is a master switch that works with HomeKit, but does not work with SmartThings. The DDMX1- is a Bluetooth switch that does not work with smartThings The 051-DW15S Is a zwave master switch that does work with SmartThings. The 001-DW15S is a Wi-Fi switch that does not work with SmartThings. The model number matters because Leviton makes a bunch of different devices using the same case. Instead, they just act as a remote control of the master switch, which will do both. They are called “remotes” because they do not communicate directly with a hub and they do not directly control the load to the light. In either case, these are connected to their master through a physical traveler wire. The older model could only be pressed at the bottom of the lever, while the newer model uses a press at the top for on and a press at the bottom for off. Leviton calls their auxiliaries “remotes.” The old model was the VP 00R. We would need the full model number of the “smart switch” to be sure, but it sounds like you have two master switches, not a master and auxiliary. Should I connect the red wire to the R terminal instead? But then there is nothing that connects the two switches together. I can only connect to those in the other switch. I cannot connect to the lights from here. I only have a single 4 line (WH, R, BK, Ground) wire coming into this box. There isn’t another wire to connect to it though. In my first switch I don’t have anything connected to the R terminal, however. But the lights actually don’t turn on and off. It clicks and the LED light on it turns on and off as appropriate. I have the black wire from the light itself terminated into the R terminal.īut only one switch will turn the lights on an off. The red wire is a traveler between the two switches and connects to the YL/R terminal on both switches. I then had a white wire come out of there as the neutral and terminated it into the WH terminal. I then took the white wire and ran it into the bundle of white wires (neutrals). What I did is run a wire from the bundle of black wires in Switch 2 as another ‘hot’ wire to the switch. Both switches now have power to them and I have discovered them on my Z-Wave network, which is awesome. I’m guessing I need that neutral for the first switch? I’ve wired this a thousand different ways and it doesn’t seem to make a difference. I try turning it back on from the first switch and it doesn’t turn on either. I try turning it on from the second switch but that doesn’t work. But when I flip the first the switch they turn off and cannot be turned back on again. When I turn the power back on the lights turn on. I have the white wire connected to the R connection. I have the red wire connected to the YL/R connection. There is a 3 wire line that runs to the first switch. I added a neutral by connecting it to the bunch of whites. The white is bundled up with a bunch of other whites. The black is not hot so I’m guessing it goes to the light. Second Switch - A two wire line runs to the light itself. The red and white appear to be travelers to the second switch. I know there are lots of other discussions on here but I can’t find what I’m looking for.įirst Switch - I just have one set of wires coming into this box.
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